Army Pullover Shirt
Cotton Linen Denim Indigo
Reconstructed through BONCOURA’s interpretation, this Army Pullover Shirt is rooted in garments worn by the U.S. military during the late 1930s to the early 1940s.
At the time, military clothing was developed under the pressure of equipping a vast number of soldiers. Efficiency in production, durability, and the ability to meet only the most essential functional requirements were strongly prioritized.
The pullover-style shirt was a highly rational response to these demands. Compared to fully open-front shirts, its structure was simpler, required fewer sewing processes, and was better suited to mass production.
Rather than refinement or completeness as a garment, the priority was to “produce in numbers” and to “function in the field.”
Seen from a contemporary perspective, this shirt can also be understood as a transitional form—workwear that was still in the process of defining its shape.
In terms of ease of wear, durability, and the distribution of stress during work, it lacks the refinement found in later full-button work shirts and jackets.
Even so, at the time it functioned as a practical garment, supporting the field with the minimum necessary specifications.
The short placket, straight silhouette, and simple construction were all the result of eliminating excess.
Rather than intentional design, these elements reflect a form shaped directly by the circumstances and demands of the era.
The US Army Pullover Shirt was not a completed piece of workwear, but a snapshot of a period in which workwear itself was still searching for its form.
BONCOURA views it as such, and has reinterpreted it as a new shirt while preserving the atmosphere of its original context.
For the fabric, cotton linen denim was selected.
While retaining the rugged character inherent to military garments, the addition of linen introduces a lightness and airiness that gently lifts the shirt from a utilitarian tool to something suited for everyday wear.
Though denim, it is not overly heavy, and gains depth of expression the more it is worn.
As with military garments that once evolved through use in the field, changing over time, this shirt too continues to take shape alongside the time of the person who wears it.
Note: Measurements are taken after washing and tumble drying.
| Size |
Length |
Shoulder |
Chest |
Sleeve Length |
| 36 |
73.5 |
50 |
124 |
58 |
| 38 |
76 |
51 |
128 |
60 |
| 40 |
79.5 |
53 |
132 |
63 |
| 42 |
82 |
54 |
136 |
65 |