Choosing Raw Cotton
To achieve the desired color and texture, we selected organic brown cotton. This beautiful shade of brown remains in its natural state, unaltered by dyes, creating a truly unique material.
Originally, brown cotton had shorter fibers, making it difficult to spin into yarn. However, through years of dedicated efforts and passion from its growers, it has been refined into longer, stronger fibers, suitable for crafting high-quality garments.
Unlike dyed cotton, brown cotton offers a distinctive texture and character that can only be experienced in its undyed form. Moreover, its natural color evolves over time, revealing a unique aging process that sets it apart from dyed fabrics.
The natural hue and soft texture of this brown cotton create a sense of warmth and authenticity. This extraordinary material marks the first step in shaping BONCOURA’s vision of the ideal garment.
A Cotton Bale’s Long Journey
“The cotton bale before us carries a story of its own. Grown in fertile fields, cotton is harvested with seeds, leaves, and sand still intact. Afterward, it undergoes a process called ‘ginning,’ where seeds and large impurities are carefully removed, leaving only pure fibers behind.
Following this, smaller debris like sand and leaf remnants are meticulously cleaned, and the fibers are loosened and compressed into this cotton bale.
As we gaze at this compacted form, we see limitless potential waiting to be unlocked. From unraveling the fibers to spinning yarns and crafting fabrics—this is the first step of creation. Imagining what this bale will transform into fills us with excitement.”
The Core of Yarn - The Process of Perfecting Fibers
In their bale form, cotton fibers are still entangled and uneven. This is where the meticulous process of untangling and aligning them begins.
Using a carding machine, each fiber is carefully separated, aligned, and cleaned of small debris like sand and leaf remnants. The result of this process is called a "sliver," the essential foundation for creating yarn.
At this stage, we blend brown cotton with a different type of natural cotton in perfect balance. This blend produces the unique brown hues and textures that BONCOURA envisions. Adjusting the blending process directly impacts the heathered texture and overall character, making this step incredibly critical and reliant on the expertise of skilled craftsmen.
It’s not just about mixing fibers; it’s about drawing out the best qualities of each and harmonizing them. This intricate process lies at the heart of BONCOURA’s dedication to crafting unparalleled fabrics.
Yarn Spinning - Defining the Character of Yarn
Drawing out the coarse yarn even further, thinning it while adding twists—this is the process of yarn spinning.
The way yarn is twisted affects not only its appearance but also its strength, texture, and even how it feels to the touch. Strong twists result in a durable and firm texture, while softer twists create a gentle and delicate impression. This subtle balance is the key to shaping the unique character of each yarn.
The Beginning of Fabric: Where Yarn Meets Air
Using a vintage loopwheel knitting machine, yarn is transformed into fabric. Unlike modern machines, this vintage mechanism works at a slow pace, allowing the fabric to capture air, resulting in a soft, plush texture.
At BONCOURA, additional steps are taken to achieve a rich and luxurious feel that cannot be replicated elsewhere.
Even standard fabric takes about 10 meters per day to produce on a loopwheel machine. However, with BONCOURA’s meticulous approach, production efficiency is further reduced, yielding just 7 meters per day. This is enough fabric for only three hoodies per day.
The Charm of Fabric – Texture and Profound Color
BONCOURA’s signature loopback fabric is known for its resilient, cushiony texture, but this new fabric offers a softer, smoother touch.
Unlike traditional loopback fabrics, this material uses a terry backing, enhancing both lightness and breathability, making it suitable for year-round wear. By using slightly finer yarns, the fabric achieves a lighter overall feel and a texture that sits comfortably against the skin. The terry backing provides a soft, gentle sensation, ensuring exceptional comfort even when worn directly on the skin.
The combination of BONCOURA’s original gray heathered yarn and organic brown cotton creates a unique, profound gray heathered tone that differs from the classic style. This color evokes the character of yarns from an earlier era, before the advent of advanced dyeing and bleaching techniques, resulting in a natural depth and complexity.
"Vintage-Inspired Sweat Collection with Discharge Print"
"This collection features the USMA PHYSICAL EDUCATION print, inspired by the Physical Education Department of the United States Military Academy.
The print utilizes a discharge technique, which naturally fades over time with washing and wear, blending seamlessly with the fabric. This fading process adds a unique character to each piece, allowing you to enjoy the charm of natural aging—a core element of BONCOURA's philosophy.
Crafted from soft terry-backed fabric, the sweatshirts, hoodies, and sweatpants offer a lightweight and smooth feel. Simple yet elevated by the vintage-style print, these pieces add a subtle edge to your wardrobe, perfect for casual yet refined styling."
The size chart represents the measurements in their unwashed state, and the garments may shrink by approximately 1.5% after washing.
Size | Waist Range | Hip | Front Rise | Back Rise | Inseam | Hem |
36 | 72-88.5 | 106 | 27.5 | 36 | 71 | 19.7 |
38 | 76-92.5 | 111 | 28.5 | 37 | 73 | 20.1 |
40 | 80-96.5 | 114 | 29 | 37.5 | 75 | 21.5 |
42 | 84-100.5 | 119 | 30 | 39 | 75 | 21.5 |
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