P-Coat Cashmere Melton Navy (Pea Coat Cashmere Melton Navy)

BONCOURA’s Pea Coat

Inspired by the Pea Coats of the 1910s U.S. Navy, this piece draws on the rich heritage of vintage designs while addressing their limitations.

While traditional Pea Coats were renowned for their impressive heft and texture, they often featured stiff wool and heavy construction. BONCOURA sought to preserve the depth and character of these originals while using modern techniques to create a fabric that balances ruggedness with refined elegance.

The custom cashmere-blend melton fabric, developed exclusively for this Pea Coat, is meticulously woven on vintage shuttle looms, incorporating air into the weave for a soft yet robust texture. Additionally, the fabric undergoes an extensive brushing process—requiring more steps than typical melton fabrics—to enhance its smoothness and create a unique finish. By blending long-fibered, fine wool with cashmere, BONCOURA has crafted a material that delivers both exceptional comfort and a sturdy, timeless appeal.

Achieving the perfect balance between cashmere and wool is no simple task. Cashmere alone provides unmatched softness but lacks the rugged texture needed for a bold, masculine aesthetic. On the other hand, wool alone struggles to achieve the sophistication and smoothness characteristic of cashmere. By harmonizing these opposing qualities, BONCOURA has created a fabric that embodies both strength and elegance.

The buttons are a testament to BONCOURA’s dedication to detail. Both large and small buttons are made from original molds, with BONCOURA’s engraving featured on the reverse side. Using urea resin, the same material employed in military applications, these buttons offer superior resistance to heat and impact. However, producing these molds requires the expertise of skilled craftsmen—a craft that is becoming increasingly rare. While the buttons may seem unassuming at first glance, their thoughtful design exemplifies the belief that “God is in the details,” resulting in buttons of unparalleled quality.

The lining is made from cotton houndstooth-patterned flannel, adding not only comfort but also a touch of refinement to the unseen parts of the coat.

From material selection to meticulous finishing, every step in creating this Pea Coat reflects BONCOURA’s unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. Experience the artistry and attention to detail in this timeless piece, designed to be a lasting companion.