Leather Jacket 1st suede black

Leather Jacket 1st Suede Black

The Leather Jacket 1st is crafted from LOTUS SUEDE, BONCOURA’s original suede leather.

Leather tanning involves countless techniques and areas of expertise that cannot be explained simply by outlining the standard process. The chemicals used, the water, and the way each stage is structured vary from tannery to tannery, with each one developing its own recipes and methods over many years. Different tanneries also have different strengths when it comes to the types of leather and finishes they produce.

At BONCOURA, we select the tannery best suited to the particular leather we want to create. We visit the factories ourselves, speak directly with the craftsmen, and work together to develop the leather we are looking for at that time.

The hides themselves are also carefully selected, with an emphasis on sourcing high-quality hides with as few scars as possible. As it becomes increasingly difficult each year to secure consistently good raw hides, maintaining this level of selection is only possible through the relationships of trust we have built by working directly with our tanners over many years.

The presence of the leather at first glance, the character that emerges after years of wear, and above all, the sensation when it is touched with the fingertips. These are all qualities BONCOURA considers essential when developing leather.

LOTUS SUEDE was developed with touch as one of its central themes.

The moment you run your fingers across it, you feel an exceptionally smooth and soft texture. It retains the distinctive nap of suede, yet the fibers never become overly dominant, giving the leather an elegant and refined overall appearance.

Another defining characteristic of this leather is its waterproof performance.

One of the most familiar ways of protecting suede from water is to apply a waterproofing spray. Depending on the treatment, however, coating the finished surface can alter the natural feel and character of the suede itself.

What BONCOURA wanted was to retain the soft hand and natural nap of suede while giving the leather waterproof properties.

Working closely with experienced craftsmen through repeated trials, we pursued a method that gives the leather its resistance to water during the tanning process itself, rather than applying a coating afterward.

Through this specialized tanning process, water tends to bead up on the surface rather than immediately soaking into the leather—much like droplets of water gathering and rolling across the surface of a lotus leaf.

The leather is also less prone to color bleeding and water staining, while reducing color transfer. At the same time, the surface is not covered with pigment or heavy coatings, allowing the suede to retain its natural softness and character.

The goal was not to make suede easier to handle by taking away what makes suede special, but to preserve those qualities while allowing it to be worn more freely.

No matter how beautiful a leather may be, if it is too precious to wear because of concerns about water or dirt, it becomes difficult to fully enjoy the character that only develops through time and use.

BONCOURA does not make leather to be kept on display. We make leather to be worn, lived in, and allowed to develop over time.

While the suede begins with a clean and composed appearance, continued wear gradually brings out creases and wear marks around the elbows and arms, while areas that are frequently touched or rubbed begin to show changes in the nap and the way the color is perceived.

Its ability to repel water like a lotus leaf, combined with its soft and refined character, is the idea behind the name LOTUS SUEDE.

The jacket itself is based on the BONCOURA 1st.

Rather than simply translating the shape of a denim jacket directly into leather, the entire balance has been reconsidered specifically for a leather garment, taking into account the thickness, softness, and drape of the material.

The chest pocket is made without a flap, incorporating a simplified detail seen in wartime-era garments, while the front deliberately uses five buttons. The proportions have been carefully adjusted so that the silhouette remains balanced and clean when the jacket is fully buttoned.

The back features a T-back construction. Every metal component—from the rivets and front buttons to the cinch-back hardware—is original to BONCOURA.

The copper rivets gradually change in color with wear, while the buttons and buckle slowly develop their own luster and depth.

The leather, the metal hardware, the creases, and the wear marks all evolve together as the jacket is worn.

Combining the LOTUS SUEDE BONCOURA set out to create with the form of the BONCOURA 1st, this is a leather jacket made to develop its character slowly over time.