The BONCOURA XX
The 501 XX is indispensable when discussing denim, having been produced over a very long period with variations in details and shapes across different eras. I have worn various models of XX denim, experiencing every era, its stitch work, silhouette, and details. The BONCOURA XX embodies what we consider the "King of denim XX," shaped into our ideal form.
While the common perception of XX denim is that of a straight and wide fit, BONCOURA's XX retains the ruggedness inherent to XX while refining it into a more polished shape. This model represents the ideal standard straight model that BONCOURA envisions, balancing seemingly contradictory expressions with finesse.
**Details**
Attention was paid to era-appropriate details, such as the differently shaped punch-through rivets from the 66 model. Naturally, the hidden rivets feature the original BONCOURA logo.
The stitching employs a balanced mix of yellow and orange, with the waistband featuring both single and chain stitching.
The front fly has a V-stitch, the belt loops are wider than those on the 66 for a "banzai" style, and the loops are raised in the middle. The hip pocket is sewn in one stroke, the crotch stitch is size 0, and the coin pocket uses selvage.
The selvage width is narrower than the 66, and the hem stitch is orange x yellow. A variety of stitch sizes (from 0 to 50) are used, and three different stitch colors are employed.
Special care is also taken with the leather patch, which is made from deer skin treated with a unique tanning process and printed in BONCOURA's signature red using a vintage foil stamping machine.
The pocket fabric utilizes BONCOURA's original broken herringbone twill. Each twill and waist label is individually stamped using a vintage typewriter, adding a unique touch.
Buttons, rivets, and other parts are meticulously chosen, featuring original designs with the BONCOURA logo, designed to age beautifully with wear. The fabric weighs 15oz, offering a balance between durability and comfort.
**Silhouette**
The BONCOURA XX silhouette is a slightly wider straight cut, with stitch work that adds to its robust atmosphere.
It's not completely straight but has a slight taper to maintain beauty while being wide, creating a pair of pants that are both rugged and elegant.
Fabric: 15oz, BONCOURA Ikemen denim (Ikemen is original blend, 100% cotton with unique twisted yarn) Vintage shuttle loom single width selvedge denim.
Style/Fit: Mid-to-high-rise, Straight
Color: Indigo
Denim Type: Indigo rope dyed
Method: Raw Denim Non-wash
Details:
- Rivets: Original logo, Copper rivets with punching
- Hidden rivet: Original logo, Brass
- Button fly
- Front Button and Top Button: Original logo,
- Pocket bags: Original random herringbone
- Pocket bag print logo
- Leather Patch: Original deerskin with printing done by a vintage foil stamping machine
- Selvedge side seams and cut coin pocket
Stitching Work
- Thread type: Cotton
- Thread stitching incorporates a gauge from 0 to 30, drawing inspiration from vintage-era stitchwork for a distinctive touch.
Inner waistband features:
- Waistband name print with catchphrase
- Size handprint
Chain stitched hem
Origin: Made in Japan
Denim fabric is unprocessed to preserve the original texture of denim, so individual differences will occur. The size chart is based on the shrunk condition after washing and drying.