B-44 USMC Utility Trousers Threne Vat Dye Herringbone olive

B-44 USMC Utility Trousers
Threne Vat Dye Herringbone olive

The P-44 was introduced during the final stages of World War II as a utility trouser for the United States Marine Corps.

It features large gusseted pockets on both thighs and an oversized rear pocket that covers much of the seat, creating a distinctive construction unlike that of other military trousers. Today, it is also widely known by the nickname “Monkey Pants,” derived from its characteristic rear appearance.

The garment itself was designed to provide enough storage for carrying food and equipment. The pursuit of this function resulted in its large pockets and unmistakable silhouette.

At BONCOURA, we have retained this distinctive construction while reconsidering the silhouette and proportions throughout, reconstructing the P-44 as the B-44 in the form that BONCOURA considers ideal.

The fabric is BONCOURA’s original military olive herringbone.

Substantial in weight and defined by the pronounced texture of its herringbone weave, it is an exceptional fabric that allows the wearer to enjoy the distinctive aging unique to BONCOURA.

BONCOURA’s original military olive herringbone is dyed exclusively with Threne dyes, a type of dye widely used for military garments of the period.

Like indigo, Threne dyes belong to the category of vat dyes. They offer strong resistance to fading caused by sunlight and chlorine-based bleaching agents found in some detergents. As one of the most colorfast dyeing methods used for clothing, vat dyeing was widely adopted for military garments intended for use in demanding environments.

While Threne dyes offer exceptional colorfastness, controlling their color development is extremely difficult. Achieving the intended shade requires the skill of an experienced dyeing artisan, making fabrics dyed entirely with Threne dyes increasingly rare today.

The size chart shows measurements taken after washing and drying, once the garment has shrunk.