Leather Jacket 1st suede black

Leather Jacket 1st, made from BONCOURA’s original suede.

Leather tanning involves countless techniques and forms of expertise that cannot be explained simply through the commonly known steps of the process. The chemicals and water used, as well as the way each stage is arranged, differ from tannery to tannery, each with its own recipes developed over many years. Every tannery also has particular types of leather and finishing techniques in which it specializes.

At BONCOURA, we select the tannery best suited to producing the specific leather we are looking for. We visit the factories ourselves and speak directly with the craftsmen, working together to create the leather we envision at that particular time.

The raw hides are also carefully selected, with particular attention given to choosing high-quality hides with as few scars and imperfections as possible. As it becomes increasingly difficult each year to secure consistently good hides, maintaining this level of selection is only possible because of the relationships of trust we have built through years of working directly with our tanners.

The visual presence of the leather, the way it changes after years of wear, and above all, the way it feels beneath the fingertips. These are all qualities we value equally when developing BONCOURA leather.

Our original suede was developed with its hand and texture as one of the central considerations. It is exceptionally smooth and soft, retaining the characteristic nap of suede while presenting a refined appearance.

Another major feature of this leather is its resistance to water.

One commonly known way of protecting suede from water is to apply a waterproofing spray. However, coating the surface in this way can alter the natural feel and character of the leather.

Instead, BONCOURA worked through repeated trials with highly skilled craftsmen to develop water resistance as part of the tanning process itself, rather than relying on a surface coating.

Through this specialized tanning process, the leather repels water more readily and is less prone to the color bleeding and water staining that can be weaknesses of conventional suede. It is also resistant to color transfer, allowing the jacket to be worn freely in everyday life while continuing to develop character over time.

Another important characteristic is that the surface is not covered with pigment or a similar coating. The natural texture and hand of the leather remain intact. As the jacket is worn, creases and wear gradually begin to appear around areas such as the elbows, while the surface of the suede develops its own changing expression.

The jacket is based on the BONCOURA 1st.

Rather than simply reproducing the shape of a denim jacket in leather, we reconsidered the balance from the ground up as a leather jacket, taking into account the thickness, softness, and natural drape of the material.

The chest pocket is made without a flap, incorporating the simplified detailing seen during the wartime period, while the front deliberately uses a five-button configuration. The placement and proportions were carefully considered so that the silhouette remains well balanced when the jacket is fully buttoned.

The back features a T-back construction. Every metal component, from the rivets and front buttons to the cinch-back hardware, is an original BONCOURA design.

The copper rivets gradually change in color with wear, while the buttons and buckle slowly develop greater depth and luster over time.

The leather, the metal hardware, the creases, and the wear marks all continue to change together through use.

Combining the suede that represents BONCOURA’s ideal with the form of the BONCOURA 1st, this is a leather jacket designed to be worn, aged, and developed over time.