Tailored Pea Coat Wool Cashmere Melton navy

Inspired by U.S. Navy pea coats from the 1910s, this is BONCOURA’s newly reworked interpretation of the Pea Coat.

Previous BONCOURA Pea Coats were constructed with an approach closer to traditional workwear, preserving the utilitarian character of military clothing. That construction had its own ruggedness and strength, which were an important part of its appeal.

For this new model, we wanted to take that idea one step further.

The theme was simple: more elegant, and more beautiful.

Rather than treating the Pea Coat purely as military outerwear, we reconsidered its construction through the principles of tailored clothing.

The intention was not to reproduce a 1910s Pea Coat exactly, but to retain the atmosphere and essential details of the period while rebuilding the garment through BONCOURA’s own perspective.

The body length has also been updated from this season.

While preserving the substantial presence associated with a classic Pea Coat, the overall proportions have been refined to create a more composed and elegant silhouette.

Original Cashmere Blend Melton

Pea coats of the period had an extraordinary sense of weight and substance, with a distinctive and powerful texture.

At the same time, the wool was often stiff and the fabric itself extremely heavy.

BONCOURA wanted to respect that substantial character while using modern techniques to create an original fabric in which ruggedness and refinement could coexist.

The result is our original cashmere-blend melton, developed specifically for this Pea Coat.

The fabric is slowly woven on traditional looms in a way that allows it to retain air within its structure.

It then undergoes a more extensive raising process than conventional melton, creating a fabric with substantial body while maintaining a soft and refined hand.

We use long-staple, pleasant-to-the-touch wool blended with cashmere.

Finding the right balance between cashmere and wool is far more difficult than it might appear.

Using cashmere alone can create an exceptionally smooth and luxurious fabric, but its softness makes it difficult to retain the rugged strength and masculine character required of a Pea Coat.

Wool alone, on the other hand, cannot express the same refinement and softness that cashmere brings.

Softness and strength.
Refinement and ruggedness.

By balancing these opposing qualities, we created a melton fabric that feels distinctly BONCOURA.

Tailored Construction

What most clearly defines this new Pea Coat is its tailored construction.

The sewing begins with particular attention to stitch density.

Rather than focusing only on strength, the machine is set to create finer stitches, giving the seams a more precise and refined appearance and helping to create a cleaner overall impression.

Unusually for a Pea Coat, the garment also incorporates a traditional hair canvas.

As with a tailored jacket, the internal structure is not used simply to hold the garment in place, but to create shape and volume that follow the body naturally.

The hair canvas allows the shoulder area to sit more closely and naturally against the wearer, creating a more three-dimensional form rather than a flat silhouette.

The line flows naturally from the shoulders through the chest, retaining the strength of a Pea Coat while introducing the composed appearance of tailored clothing.

Particular attention was also given to the internal structure of the collar.

The large collar is one of the defining elements of a Pea Coat, and its shape is just as important when worn standing as it is when worn open.

The interlining and construction have been carefully adjusted so that the collar maintains a clean, structured form when raised.

Pressing

In tailored clothing, pressing and ironwork are just as important as the sewing itself.

Throughout construction, the fabric is carefully shaped with heat and pressure, removing unwanted tension in some areas while introducing controlled shape in others to gradually build a three-dimensional form.

The final pressing is then carried out slowly and carefully to set the shape created throughout the sewing process.

This is not simply a matter of removing wrinkles from the surface.

It is an essential stage in completing the form of the garment itself.

Through this process, even the substantial melton fabric can be shaped into a silhouette that follows the body with greater depth and elegance.

Original Buttons

The buttons, one of the defining elements of a Pea Coat, are also original BONCOURA designs.

Both the large and small buttons were developed from the mold stage, with BONCOURA branding applied to the reverse.

They are made from urea resin, a material that has also been used for military applications and is valued for its resistance to heat and impact.

The number of craftsmen capable of producing molds of this kind has continued to decline, making their manufacture increasingly difficult.

At first glance, the buttons may appear simple.

However, rather than making them overly decorative, we focused on achieving the precise texture and presence required for the BONCOURA Pea Coat.

All ten front buttons are attached entirely by hand.

Because of the thickness of the melton fabric, each button is positioned and attached with careful consideration of the fabric depth, preventing unnecessary pulling or distortion when the coat is buttoned.

Lining

For the lining, we use the cotton flannel familiar from other BONCOURA garments.

For this version, a solid color was chosen to create a cleaner, more restrained impression and to complement the substantial character of the outer melton fabric.

The garment is considered as a whole, not only in the areas visible from the outside, but also in the feel when the coat is put on and the appearance of the interior when it is removed.

The strength and substantial presence of early 20th-century Pea Coats remain at the foundation of this garment.

Rather than simply copying the original, we preserved the atmosphere and character of the period while rebuilding the coat through modern materials and tailored construction.

It represents a step beyond the rugged appeal of the more workwear-oriented construction used in our previous model.

Hair canvas, fine stitching, careful ironwork, final pressing, and hand-attached buttons.

By bringing the principles and techniques of tailored clothing into the Pea Coat, we have preserved its inherent strength while making it more dimensional, more refined, and more elegant.

This is BONCOURA’s new interpretation of the Pea Coat.